In 2015 prior to his opening of Wildflower, Chef Ged Jerrard sought knowledge.
Recognised for his contribution to Nyungar culture with an honorary Doctorate of Letters by Murdoch University in 2001, he found Nyungar man Dr Richard Walley. A tireless campaigner for the Indigenous cause, it was this First Nations actor, musician, writer, and visual artist who shared with him his Noongar peoples knowledge of six seasons.
In the decade since, the likes of native ingredient mastermind Chef Matthew Sartori, as well as celebrated bush tucker talent Chef Michael D’Adamo have nurtured its growth. Now under the stewardship of Chef Paul Wilson, his experience working in 1 and 3-hatted restaurants has Wildflower continue to bloom.
As the signature restaurant atop COMO The Treasury Hotel, a 48-room contemporary luxury hotel in Perth’s restored State Buildings, the glass enclosed outdoor terrace offers a stunning view. Across Stirling Gardens to the Swan River, it is without doubt the most impressive rooftop in Perth.
The tranquil, sunlit dining area seats eighty within its lush green banquette seating. The image of a cloud-filled dolphin-grey sky, with towering eucalyptus in the foreground and Darling Scarp emerging in the distance graciously acknowledges Country; hand-in-hand with panoramic views of the city.
The atmosphere of sophistication translates to the plate. Seasonal menus aren’t new; the traditional seasons of the Noongar aren’t either – except to us.
Unlike the four-season European designation James Cook brought with him, the number of cycles and their names varies between four and thirteen; depending on environmental indicators specific to First Nations groups. The Noongar peoples have six. Each is of two-month duration and starting in December, they are Birak, Bunuru, Djeran, Makuru, Djilba and Kambarang.
Finding the flavour of each of these musical sounds is what Wildflower does.
With dietary menus available on request, lunch is midday to 2.30pm Wednesday to Friday; dinner from 5.30pm to 10.00pm Tuesday to Saturday. There are two necessities: making a reservation; and deciding whether to indulge your senses in an 8, 6 or 4-course tasting, or go with the FLOW of a 2-course lunch.
Part of any fine dining experience is complimentary bread. At Wildflower it’s a small loaf of warm house fennel, caraway and wattle seed; its accompaniment shaved macadamia-topped house butter. Aromatic, light, nutty, and sublime.
The wine list is thoughtfully constructed with an excellent range of varietals, countries and regions with a splendid by the glass selection.
Without knowing which seasonal menu will be on offer when you make your booking, what can be said is that each dish will be infused with locally foraged native ingredients. Think beach rosemary, native mustard, samphire, barilla and river fern as just a few.
Highlights include a bed of sweet, vegetal preserved kohlrabi, on which sits paper thin, tender and juicy slices of raw Shark Bay saucer scallops. Crowned with blitzed sweetcorn, shavings of frozen buttermilk and creamy native basil dressing, it’s an ocean dip into an explosion of complementary flavours. Sharpness, sweetness, earth and pepper combine in a wonderfully palate pleasing dish.
An amazing merging of texture and flavour is its baton of succulent, flaky, juicy, tender toothfish. Encased in a crunchy, squid ink infused brioche crust, it’s served with creamy potato and garlic cream with a soupçon of crayfish juice. Steamed coastal greens of samphire and native grasses complete the plate.
You’ll find perfectly poached Southwest Marron sharing its presentation with native salt bush, brown butter and finger limes.
The small, local family business of Wagin Duck & Game should be proud of the stand-out dish their expertise brings to the table. Free range Wagin Duck, deliciously crispy-skinned, alongside bush tomato, blood lime and forgotten carrots is absolutely memorable.
Frankly, it’s making me too hungry too continue.
Too many thoughts… Beets cooked in jarrah ash. Slow cooked pork jowl and Davidson plum. Stormflower Cab Sav… and that’s before moving to dessert. Or the silky rich creaminess of locally made St Duke’s blue cheese, with its tangy veins of deep muted teal exquisitely paired with quince, walnut and brown butter.
Wildflower is a high quality, full-service culinary experience of bush tucker. Dishes are created to be lingered over, savoured; and integrated into your tasting soul. Its plates tell stories of cooling sea breezes, native flora coming into bloom, and barramundi leaping land.
Connect with Country. Expand your knowledge, delight your senses and be wild with it…
CONTACT:
COMO The Treasury
1 Cathedral Avenue, Perth WA
📞 08 6168 7855
🌐 wildflowerperth.com.au
📸 @wildflowerrestaurant
📘 facebook.com/wildflowerperthau
Hours
Tue: 5:30pm – late
Wed–Fri: 12:00pm – 2:30pm, 5:30pm – late
Sat: 5:30pm – late